I think for this to work, they would have to do a mechanical retrofit on my rather dated Toyota.
That being said, I once owned a Mazda I bought used from a large dealer. It had a rotary engine that was always being blamed for various maladies. One constant problem I had was with the battery running down. If I let it sit idle for a weekend (i.e. I come home from work on Friday, park it, and then don’t use the car again until I need it to drive to work on Monday), on Monday morning it often only had enough reserve to turn the motor over 1-2 times, then I had to get jumper cables and start from another family member’s car. If I let the car sit for a whole week, it would need time on the charger before it would start.
Troubleshooting the problem, I used my trusty VOM, and measured current drain from the battery with everything ‘off’. There was a 1.5 mA drain. Seems hardly enough to matter. But what solved the problem was to buy an aftermarket knife switch that connects inline at the battery terminal, and when I park the car in-between uses, I’d just I’d just switch it off, and the battery stayed charged. My best guess was that the drain was for the auto-winder in the mechanical dash clock.
